A Sanctuary for Tea Lovers and Foodies

Tea has long been enjoyed as a sole entity when one is alone in contemplation with one’s thoughts,  enjoying the aroma of the tea and the sweetness or bitterness of the flavor. But historically, tea has been enjoyed in China, India and Japan as part of the meal.

Pairing tea with food is as natural as pairing wine with food. As I sit down for a Tea and Food Pairing with Dawn Cameron, owner of Sanctuary T, it becomes clear that tea is far more complex than one might originally expect.

A tea is very much like a wine. Both vary in flavor depending on how the leaf/grape is treated: the soil, the weather, the plucker and the maker. All teas are made from the leaves of Camellia sinensis. White tea is plucked from a young leaf and the tea is fast-dried. Green tea originated in China and is baked, while Japanese green tea is steamed, then pan-fired. Classic green tea is rolled into tight little balls. Darjeeling is considered the “Champagne” of teas; according to the Tea Board of India, Darjeeling tea refers to tea that has been cultivated, grown, produced, manufactured and processed in the tea gardens. It is a highly prized black tea with five varieties, depending on when it is harvested (First Flush, In Between, Second Flush, Monsoon and Autumnal Flush). Oolong tea comes from a longer leaf from older trees and is oxidized through carefully controlled fermentation. The “Monkey Picked” Oolong goes through an eight-step process of rolling and drying and is stored in a cave and set to age for up to 20 years. Rooibos is actually not from a tealeaf but from a South African red bush, a member of the legume family.

The Tea and Food Pairing is an event Sanctuary T hosts on Wednesday nights. The menu is created by chefs Ken and Mark in conjunction with Dawn, the “tea sommelier,” who draws on her in-depth knowledge of teas to pick those that best complement each course of the tasting.

Before we settle into the meal, Dawn tells me about how the variations of teas complement variations of food. A general rule of thumb is that the light teas (green and white) pair well with lighter foods like fruit, salad and seafood – similar to a white wine – while strong teas (black and rooibos), containing more tannin, pair well with red meat, fried foods and rich desserts, like a red wine. Then there is the steeping of the tea, the length of which varies depending on the type of tea and the strength of flavor you desire. Also the type of brewing (hot or cold) changes the flavors of a tea.

Our menu began with Vegetable Porridge accompanied by Spring Harvest-flavored green tea. The porridge was light but rustic and earthy set against the sweet, fruity and bold flavor of the Spring Harvest. The second course was Beet and Goat Cheese Salad with Imperial Gunpowder Green Tea. The Gunpowder carried a bold acidic taste that cut into the flavor of the goat cheese, which had been breaded. As a third course, I was delighted to try Scallop Cakes. They were lightly breaded with panko and served with a spicy curry sauce. Curry can be very bold depending on the amount of the spices, but this sauce was quite mellow. Initially serving an iced tea, Dawn switched to a hot Darjeeling First Flush black tea that carried a moderately bold, fresh and slightly nutty taste. The reason for the change became obvious as the warm tea enhanced the flavors of the curry and the spicy scallop cake much more than the cold had. The main course was the perfect meal for our particularly cold and wet day. Pan-Seared Free Range Chicken atop Sweet Corn Mash drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar was served with Iron Goddess of Mercy Oolong tea. It was a perfect comfort food and in my hands, the fragrant and warm tea complemented the day and the food. The corn was sweet but the aged balsamic added an acidity and bitterness. It was a savory and sweet dish that balanced well with the woody and nut flavor of the Iron Goddess of Mercy. Dessert was a new experience, a brownie sundae with Honey Bush Tea-infused coffee ice cream, drizzled chocolate sauce and Rooibos Chai. The ritual began with drinking the hot chai infused with spices of ginger, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon bark, peppercorns and cardamom. The creation was more than just a brownie sundae; the combination of tea to coffee ice cream, followed by a bite of brownie, was like sucking on a Werther’s candy.

The tea and food experience was surprisingly energizing. With food and wine tastings, I often leave feeling tired and full, but the feeling I experienced leaving Sanctuary T was invigorating and satisfying, as if I had spent a few hours at a health spa. The name “Sanctuary T” was inspired by Dawn’s goal to provide patrons with a retreat from the city hustle and bustle. Sanctuary T is Dawn Cameron’s energy and passion for teas come to fruition.

Visit ShopSanctuaryt.com for more information on varieties of teas, suggested pairings and health benefits of each tea.