Key West…Discover Your Journey

By Tina Guiomar

Wednesday, 29 June 2011 16:36

The Reach, Key West

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” – Ernest Hemingway. This statement is never more true than when talking about a destination trip to celebrated Key West, the southernmost location in the continental United States.

Our journey began on a private jet ride to Fort Lauderdale, courtesy of our friends at Excel Air. From the Florida mainland, we had 159 miles of driving ahead so we began to peel away our workday stress and start relaxing and turning into true vacationers.

The Florida Keys is made up of more than 400 islands, where addresses (except in Key West) are found by mile markers. There are many sights and restaurants along the Keys … and many, many bars. If you enjoy a bit of partying, sun and reggae fun, stop off at MM84 for Holiday Isle’s Tiki Bar, filled to the brim with people all day long; you’ll enjoy frozen drinks and oceanside views. It’s a prelude to the Key West lifestyle of living life like there’s no tomorrow and untying the tie and tossing it aside.

Once we hit our destination, we knew we had arrived. It’s been said that “You feel like you’ve left the country and arrived in a remote Caribbean island. Key West is a tourist destination set in a residential neighborhood.” A great place for us to settle into our relaxed state of mind was The Reach Resort. The staff was very friendly and attentive, transporting us to the Key West life. This luxurious boutique resort (near the prestigious Waldorf Astoria) sits right on the water and offers breathtaking views of the ocean. The resort’s pool is a hot spot all day, so I recommend getting there early. Beyond the pool are a private beach and pier. The resort is home to the well-known Strip House with its sexy interior décor, great steaks and amazing cocktails to enjoy inside or outside on the porch. There is a secret hideaway on the fifth floor where only those privy to the resort can lounge while they experience a breathtaking, unobstructed view of the sunset. The resort is located close enough to the nightlife but far enough to enjoy the peace and quiet.

Transportation on the island can be tricky. The Reach has a parking garage but to get around the town and explore the region, the best way to travel is on two wheels: a moped or bicycle. Moped Hospital, two blocks from our resort, has reasonably priced bikes and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. We were off to explore the island, traveling like true Conchs. Along the way we found salty dogs, entertainers, restaurants galore and unique ex-pats from around the world.

Restaurants are numerous in Key West and we found a few that really enticed our refined palates. The Café Marquesa is a quaint, intimate, 50-seat restaurant with richly inspired cuisine by Susan Ferry including her Key West Seafood Dumplings and Herbed Crusted Black Grouper. For an amazing breakfast, the only place is Blue Heaven. A secret among the locals, Blue Heaven is a display of colorful art and entertainment where roosters run amok. The Lobster Benedict is the best breakfast dish I’ve ever tasted. What really makes the dish is the Key Lime Hollandaise sauce; it’s creamy and sinful. On a whim, we made reservations at The Hot Tin Roof and it was the right night and the right time, as we were seated just as the sun was setting on the harbor. The food was as good as the view with Porcini Dusted Diver Scallops with a Truffle Emulsion and Yellow Fin Tuna. An early morning drive landed us at Pepe’s Café, the oldest restaurant in the Florida Keys. On a perfect Key West day, we sat on the outdoor patio under a stunning mahogany tree with a basic breakfast plate and a rockin’ spicy Bloody Mary garnished with a giant celery stalk. Meeting a man from Dublin is no surprise in this town, so we sat down for dinner with Dublin chef Stuart Kemp at his restaurant, 915 Duval, for some “quality food that should not require an IQ test.” The Soul Mama’s Soup was outstanding, the best thing on the menu. The broth was the perfect balance of flavors. Spices of ginger and kefir leaves were strong but not overwhelming. It was served with mussels, shrimp, grouper, little neck clams and basmati rice.

You cannot explore the island without hitting essential sights. A must on our outing to discover Key West, we needed to learn the history of the island. At the Key West Shipwreck Treasure Museum, the Key West Wreckers took us through a historical tour of shipwrecks and their treasures followed by a 65-foot walk straight up to Lookout Tower. At night, the crazies came out on the Ghost & Gravestones Frightseeing Tour. Our gruesome Ghost Host told tales of murder and superstitions on the island. At Martello Fort, we met Robert the Doll who eerily watched us through the looking glass. (Be sure to ask permission before taking his picture.) The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum is a classic tour of the home of the man who made the island famous. Keep an eye out for the six-toed cats; they are everywhere. Mile Marker 0 is a hot spot for pictures.

Along with our quest to explore the island and the people, I had a personal goal to find the best Key lime pie in Key West. During my three-day journey, I ate more than six different pies, which gave my sweet tooth a kick in the butt. (Dentists beware!) I came to the same decision as Zagat: Camille’s Restaurant serves the best in the world, by far. The pie boasts a moist graham cracker crust, a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg, and a creamy filling; it’s the perfect balance of sweet and tart.

In time we reached the Southernmost Point Marker. The most picturesque spot in Key West, this tip of Florida is the end of the journey for many visitors. The Southernmost Point may be the end, but exploring the Keys, traveling the markers, and discovering Key West is a journey not only of geography, but of culture and history as well.

Hotel Accommodation

• The Reach: 1435 Simonton Street, (305) 296-5000 www.reachresort.com

Sights and Tours
• Key West Shipwreck Treasure Museum: www.KeyWestShipwreck.com
• Old Town Trolley’s Ghost & Gravestones Frightseeing Tour: www.ghostsandgravestones.com
• Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum: www.HemingwayHome.com
• Southernmost Point Marker: corner of South Street and Whitehead Street
• Seven Mile Bridge: between MMs 40 and 47
• Mile Market 0: corner of Whitehead and Fleming streets
• Key West Cemetery: corner of Margaret and Angela streets. A quirky cemetery, where the epitaphs are reflective of the Key West humor, as in, “I told you I was sick.”

Transportation
• Moped Hospital: 601 Truman Avenue, (305) 296-3344 www.mopedhospital.com

Restaurants
• Holiday Isle Tiki Bar: MM84 www.holidayisle.com
• Café Marquesa: 600 Fleming Street, (305) 292-1244 www.marquesa.com/café-marquesa.htm
• Blue Heaven: 729 Thomas Street, (305) 296-8666 www.blueheavenkw.com
• The Hot Tin Roof: 00 Duval Street, (305) 296-7701 www.oceankey.com
• Pepe’s Café: 806 Caroline Street, (305) 294-7192 www.pepescafe.net
• 915 Duval: 915 Duval Street, (305) 296-0669 www.915duval.com

Key Lime Quest (in ranking order)
1 - Camille’s Restaurant: By far the best, as rated by Zagats. I have to agree. A moist graham cracker crust, a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg, and a creamy filling; it’s the perfect balance of sweet and tart. 1202 Simonton Street, (305) 296-4811 www.camilleskeywest.com
2 - Pepe’s Café: Creamy filling with a dollop of whipped cream but the crust was a little dry. www.pepescafe.net
3 - Island Joe’s Bakery: Chilled piece of heaven with a good crust, a thick filling and the perfect serving size. 519 Fleming Street, (305) 294-1190 www.ijscafes.com
4 - Blue Heaven: The filling was different from the others with more of a meringue piled high and a moist crust. www.blueheavenkw.com
5 - The Hot Tin Roof: A gourmet version of the Key lime pie with a Chantilly cream and a macadamia nut and graham cracker crust. www.oceankey.com
6 - Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Pie Shoppe: With a gelatin-like filling, it was good but too sweet. www.keylimeshop.com